How to speed up rigging your Weta
February 2, 2018 at 5:19 am #10064
Bob Hyde’s suggestions (do you have any more tips?):
After many years of Weta-ing (#151 and #572), and being incredibly lazy and weak, here’s a few tips to making your life easy while rigging.
Leave stuff rigged, don’t tie knots, use a big ass bag.
- Don’t remove lines. Keep the spin and jib lines rigged all the time. The amas can be removed and set on the dolly without taking them off.
- Don’t remove the halyards. When you separate the mast sections, stuff the line into the bottom of the upper section and then place it on the dolly. Don’t do this if you are trailering the boat. Make a fabric cover for the ends of the mast. The old jib sail bag can be used for this.
- Don’t remove the main shrouds. Once the mast in down, coil the shrouds and stuff them under the handhold on the ama. If trailering, stuff them in the cockpit after removing the amas.
- Get a big windsurfing bag to put everything in. DaKine makes a bag that is the length/width of the Weta cockpit and has a long zipper down its entire length. Everything goes into this bag. And the bag stays in the cockpit when the boat is stored. Get rid of the supplied sail bags.
- Don’t de-rig the screacher. Leave the screacher loosely rolled up, on the pole, with the furler line, and stuff it in the cockpit bag. You’ll have to fold the screacher a couple of times to get it in the bag, but leave everything rigged unless you’re super anal about wrinkles in your sail.
- Don’t tie a knot in the forward tramp lines. Normally you have to tie a knot to secure the forward tramp line to the main hull. This sucks and pisses me off. Put a 1/2″ ball on the end of the forward tramp line. Then loop the line through the block and back to the tramp using the ‘ol loop-ball trick (see diagram below*).
- Don’t tie knots on the jib or screacher. Use the loop-ball setup just like the tramp line (see diagram below*) or use a soft shackle. Tying knots is slow and could cause you to break a nail.
- Don’t take the tiller extension off the tiller. Put it in the big cockpit bag.
- Put everything in the big DaKine cockpit bag – rudder, dagger board, paddle, tools, screacher, main, jib, lifting bridle, etc. Everything that you need to sail goes in the bag. The only thing that doesn’t go in the bag are your wet cloths, PFD, and electronics. And the bag stays on the boat in the cockpit, even when you trailer the boat.
It generally it takes me about 20 minutes to rig the boat completely. I’m usually on the water in about an hour after dressing, waiting for assholes to clear the crane, crane launching, BS’ing with everyone, taking a dump, BS’ing with everyone some more, deciding if I really want to sail, etc.
*The ‘ol loop-ball trick
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February 2, 2018 at 5:24 am #10067
I would change 3
Don’t remove the main shrouds. Once the mast is down, coil the shrouds and put them on top of the tramps with the ends tucked in so they won’t come undone. If trailering, thread the mainsheet through them and hook it onto the mast step bar or cunningham hook if you need more length.
Carabiner clips for halyards
Tie stainless steel carabiner clips on the end of the jib and gennaker halyards where they clip onto the head of the sail to save you having to make a mess of tying a bowline each time.
Halyard tails inside the boat
Also instead of putting the halyard tails inside the mast, I wrap them around the upper mast once near the front mast support and put the mast bungee tie down over the top to hold them in place and keep them taught. Then I put the tails inside the hatch.
February 5, 2018 at 1:20 am #10078
February 7, 2018 at 2:42 pm #10088
Big Ass Bag
The mainsail is just under 2m long when rolled but allow 2m (6’5″) as a minimum. Surfboard and windsurfer bags are ideal for storing the sails and other gear but it does need some height in the bag to avoid crushing the sail.
The Curve Super-Slim Coffin bag is available in lengths from 6’6″ (2m) to 7’6″ (2.3m) from $110.
- surfboard coffin cover for day use (usually used for transporting multiple surfboards)
- same patented wrap design as overstayer – secures any size load whether large or small.
- 2 entry options: unfold for full side access or unzip tail for rear access.
- 14×14 hard wearing silver tarpee
- 7mm waterproof shock absorbing foam core.
- 600D nose and tail reinforcement.
- reinforcement stitching in hi-stress areas.
- heat reflective nylon lined interior.
- big tooth #10 zip, reversed for extra zip protection.
- 4x grab handles for easy handling.
- 2x external pockets, 1x internal pocket.
- address label.
- less zips to break or corrode.
- weights: S 4.6LB / 2.1kg, M 4.85LB / 2.2kg, L 5.1LB / 2.3kg
October 30, 2018 at 10:01 pm #10268
Another modification to the list instead of 6.
Thread a double length of rope for the ama ties through the tramp edge (butt the two ends together and put some tape to hold them in place temporarily). Now you don’t have to re-tie the front at all – just leave it in place and loosed the back – then pull through some slack at the front to allow the ama arms to go over the boat with the tramps still attached. When rigging, all you have to do is pull the tramp line from stern and roll up the slack the same way you do for the halyards which creates a nice handhold for pulling the tramps taught.
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