Newbie Question about Mainsheet Block
May 21, 2018 at 11:42 pm #10168
I’ve had my new Weta (#1150) out a few times now and I need a bit of help with a couple issues.
When I am out on the trampoline, I don’t seem to be able to uncleat the main. I have to slide in and push it down with my foot. Can anyone suggest a good starting position for the adjustable mainsheet block? Mine has 11 positions.
My second question is about the different clew holes on the jib. On my first sail, I had it in the furthest back position, and was able to sail almost as high as the other boats around me (all mono hulls).
On my second trip out, with a bit more wind, I moved the hook 1 position forward. I found that I couldn’t get even close to the angle to the wind that the monos were using. Was this because of the different position?
Thanks in advance for any helpful tips!
May 22, 2018 at 12:54 am #10170
It’s a bit difficult to suggest a starting position for the mainsheet cleat because it will depend on a number of variables including your height, hiking position (sitting on floats or tramp edge) and length of the strop from the block to the deck ring.
If you’re having to use your foot it’s definitely too low!
Best suggestion is to stand beside the boat on the trolley to get an approximate position and take a screwdriver out with you on a practice day (or before the race).
Try the new position in various hiking locations. To adjust it, put the boat hove-to – tack leaving the jib cleated, release the main completely until it’s against the shrouds and wedge the tiller extension under a hiking strap or loop the spinnaker sheet around it to keep the rudder turning the boat into the wind.
Regarding the clew holes – most people in our fleet use the rear one as much as possible only switching over 15-18knots of wind – but it does depend on the crew weight and how comfortable you are with float hiking.
Generally the Weta won’t point as high as monohulls in the mid-range – you’re better off easing the sheets to use your speed and overcome the drag of the hills to get the boat planing.
It does change once you get close to 20 knots of wind when the width of the Weta allows you to point and retain height and the monohulls start to have to ease their sails to spill some wind.
If it’s very light (<6 knots) you can still maintain headway (but not height) using the gennaker as a “code zero” and sitting on the leeward side to give the sails some shape and keep one float flying, to reduce drag, as well as playing he gennaker direct with your hand and bringing the clew of the gennaker towards the middle of the tramp.
Between 6-10 knots in flat water, it can pay to sit by the daggerboard and remain on the tramp in front of the stays in the puffs. Once you find you need to hike, move back behind the stay but up against it and only move further back in waves.
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