Tagged: beach wheels
March 15, 2017 at 5:40 am #9664
Helllo I am a new owner, and faced with some awkward choices of launching site locally
I wondered about getting wheeleze for the dolly to help get up over soft sand or in one place small but sharpish rocks.
I wonder what others have found about these wheels. Are they useful and rugged?
I wonder if they can stand jarring when the boat is loaded on a standard road trailer?
Can they be fitted easily to the usual dolly?
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March 26, 2017 at 9:59 pm #9666
I have a very corrugated and steep concrete ramp at club my recently acquired weta sails. The wheelbarrow wheels were hard work, so I have a set of 42 cm balloon wheels coming this week. Better for beaches, but I am hoping better for my purpose as well. Plenty of other jobs getting this Mk1 boat 177 sorted, but enjoying the sailing immensely.
March 27, 2017 at 5:27 am #9667
Peter DuRoss who is based near Sydney has a set of Wheelez and swears by them . The only downside of the Wheelez is that they are buoyant so you might consider adding a weight to the axle while launching (a sand-bag would do the trick). Some have also suggested using a sand bag as an anchor to stop it floating off while you beach the boat.
There’s a video of them being used with a Weta on soft sand here – although he’d find it much easier to unload the boat if he walked into the water so it can be floated off.
The Weta weighs approx 115 Kg fully rigged so you’d need the 42cm Wheelez. You need a longer axle due to the wider wheel.
The Axle Kit 42 (WZ1-WAK 42) with the 48.8 cm (20mm x 91.5 cm) axle is the one to go for (cut in two to make two 24cm stubs).
Remove the original stubs (2 bolts each side) and slide the new axles in place (some grease may help). Set them so that the wheel is held by the R-clip, then drill them using the holes the bolts came out of as a guide (although don’t drill in place as you’ll strip the thread), then reinsert bolts.
Another alternative is to get wider 6″x 8″wheelbarrow wheels (as opposed to the 4.5″ originals) which you can find on e-Bay. They also require the axle to be extended.
They should be fine on the trailer providing you don’t overload the boat with stuff (Weta recommend only leaving the sails in the boat when towing) as this the weight of the unsupported stern can cause cracks in the trolley. Never tie the boat directly to the trailer with straps over the top as you can crush the amas.
Option 1: Using the trolley wheels to cushion road impacts
Fix the boat to the trailer by threading the mainsheet through one of the edge loops of the tramp arm – up over the tramp and through the other arm edge loop so you can hook it to the Cunningham hook. Then tighten so the floats and hull are fixed in place. Tie the boat to to the trolley at the bow then tie the trolley to the trailer by securing the trolley axle to the trailer at either side (so that it’s held in the centre of the trailer but has limited vertical movement). Then secure the trailer to the trolley at the bow – I use a U bracket (created from a fence post fitting I found at Bunnings) with a bolt over the top as well as using the winch strap to hold the front of the trolley against the rubber pad of the winch post.
Option 2: Secure the boat to the trolley as above but take the wheels off and support the trolley directly with wooden blocks, especially at the rear.
Hope this helps
- This reply was modified 9 months, 4 weeks ago by Paul White. Reason: Clarification of tying trolley to trailer
March 29, 2017 at 6:43 am #9669
Thanks both to Paul and to peter. With regard to axle width I have another complication in that the dilly loads onto a trailer whose width does not allow for more than maybe 3cm extra axle length on each side, but I will think about that. Peter, please let me know how you get on with the wheel eez.
I am suddenly in no hurry as I tore my shoulder ligaments mountain biking last weekend!
Thanks again Allan
March 29, 2017 at 9:58 am #9670
You have a similar challenge to what I faced Allan, (and thanks again Paul!!).
Every weta trolley/trailer combo I have seen is different, but my boat 177 has removable red typical trolley wheels which need to come off so the trolley can jump up and over the aft bar of the Oceanic trailer which looks like a little tinny trailer. The alloy barrel axle receiver then has a double wedge to lift the barrel up and over the aft bar of the trailer. The old 20 mm stainless tube axles then locate just inside the side bars of the trailer.
I have just got my 42 cm wheeleze and have
- pulled the old double bolted tube axles out of the alloy barrel receiver (attempt at pic upload)
- used a long tentpole as a “drift” to withdraw the plastic conduit that originally choked down the 26 mm ID alloy barrel to take the tube axle
- Built a longer version of the timber override wedge to hold the new axle up above the trailer frame
- marked a solid bar 25 mm new (longer) axle and sent off to the hole drillers, to insert with some electrolytic insulation for the new wheels
I was at least fortunate that the conduit acted as an insulator for the stainless/alloy action, and the axle was easy to remove. If it has been metal to metal, things would have been a lot worse which is why I am going to use some mylar wrapping and grease (unless a reader suggests better) for insulation.
New axles will go in tomorrow after I pick them up, and if ever ex-tropical cyclone Debbie pings off I will be able to go sailing again.
May 17, 2017 at 1:58 am #9724
I’ve also got the Oceanic Tinny Trailer (34 – 13) and I used to have the skids that required the wheels to be removed which I always found a hassle.
However I converted it to a light-weight flat bed trailer which means I can just wheel the boat on and off the trailer with the wheels still on and secure it quickly using a U-bracket at the front and a couple of ropes from the trolley axle to the trailer loops at the rear.
Remove the skids and bolt a galvanised L-profile steel angle crossmember (from Bunnings) across the trailer width just in front of the wheels. Add a similar crossmember just in front of the rear crossbar facing the other way.
Use marine grade 12mm x 1200mm plywood which exactly fits the width of the trailer for the platform with a couple of small cutouts for the welds for the mudguard supports – this is supported by the trailer frame and angled steel.
Create some dual-purpose ramps using the Recovery Tracks from Supercheap Auto (which also work for getting the car out of soft sand or retrieving the boat through soft sand). Hook them onto the rear crossbar using a couple of L-shaped galvanised shelf supports bolted onto one end. You need the longer recovery ramps to prevent the stern from grounding but you could use steel or ally ramps instead.
Add a U-bracket to the front of the trailer using a post anchor from Bunnings which is attached to the trailer front beam using U-bolts. This secures the trolley at the front of the trailer with a bolt accross the top of the bracket which is secured with a wingnut for easy removal and a piece of pipe to prevent damage to the trolley.
March 29, 2017 at 10:00 am #9671
June 1, 2017 at 10:49 pm #9745
Hi Peter Hw are you getting on with those wheel-eze? Allan
June 5, 2017 at 6:10 am #9750
Wheels are great on club corrugated ramp, had a fiddle pulling old axles out and replacing with thicker axles for new wheels. Trailer is not perfect for trolley but is working fine with some addons.
Would add pics but am OS.
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