Forum Replies Created
All the ones I’ve seen have been cut off vertically. I wonder if a previous owner has cut them like that to make it easier to insert them.
The only issue is that you can’t support the ends with an internal ring (as Weta used originally) or the new fibreglass insert which is less prone to falling out since it has a larger surface area for glue.
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After a while you may find your Spinlocks fail to grip the rope. It’s most likely to be the cleat mechanism sticking so soak them in warm water to remove the salt and when dry, spray with silicone spray.
Another modification to the list instead of 6.
Thread a double length of rope for the ama ties through the tramp edge (butt the two ends together and put some tape to hold them in place temporarily). Now you don’t have to re-tie the front at all – just leave it in place and loosed the back – then pull through some slack at the front to allow the ama arms to go over the boat with the tramps still attached. When rigging, all you have to do is pull the tramp line from stern and roll up the slack the same way you do for the halyards which creates a nice handhold for pulling the tramps taught.
Some more tips for mast raising:
1. Raise the mast on the trolley, not the trailer. It reduces the height you have to lift the mast.
2. Turn the boat stern-to-wind. This keeps you from fighting the wind when lifting the mast on deck (the shrouds keeping the mast from blowing forward).
3. Use the two-step approach, resting the mast vertically on the moose head before raising it onto the deck (or climbing on deck) this greatly shortens the final lift.
4. Tie an extension to the screecher halyard and run it through the bow ring and back through one of the jibsheet cam cleats. Put the bitter end, with plenty of slack, into a pocket before climbing on deck. When the mast is in its step, take out the slack and cleat it. Remove the halyard extension once the forestay is in secured.
- This reply was modified 10 months, 4 weeks ago by Paul White.
The Drift Stealth 2 has finally been replaced by the Drift Ghost X which keeps the same small, lightweight format but the standard battery life has been extended to an excellent 5 hrs which can be upgraded to 8 hrs with an external battery pack (not compatible with the optional waterproof case – required on a Weta).
Camera Dimensions: 43 x 82.2 x 32.4MM
Camera Weight: 120g
Water Resistance: IPX4
Processor: Ambarella A12
Sensor: OV4689 4MP
Battery Life: 1080P30: 5 Hours, 1080P30(w/ LL battery): 8 hours
Screen: Dot-matrix backlit rear LCD
FOV: 140 degree
Rotating Lens: Yes – 330 degree
Wi-Fi: 2.4G only
Remote Control: Not compatible
Microphone: Mono Microphone
Video Resolutions: 1080P (1920*1980): 25/30 FPS, 960P (1280*960), 720P (1280*720), WVGA (896*480)
File Format: H.264 MP4
Zoom: 10X (Through App)
Photo Mode: 4/8/12 MP
Video Tagging: YES
Car DVR: YES
Instant On: YES
Memory Capacity: Micro SD, SDHC, SDXC Memory Cards up to 128GB
Live Streaming: Yes – up to 1080P
Cloud Services: Auto Video Editing, Live Stream too Youtube, Facebook, 10GB Free Cloud Storage
The excellent budget option, the TCL SVC200 has been discontinued. However, after OEMing the SVC200 as the XTC300, Midland in the USA seem to have continued with a similar camera with an upgraded spec and battery life (4 hours) as well as adding other features with the XTC400VP.
The 140º lens is better than the 127º of the TCL they have added WiFi ability (and a rather flakey phone App) but dispensed with the side LCD display which the SVC had. It now has a rotating lens which means you can mount it at any angle. It still has the simple magnetic on-off switch of the the TCL but requires a rather heavy waterproof case to be fully waterproof. The camera and case together weigh over 240g which may be a bit much on the end of a pole but will be fine mounted on the bowsprit.
Price US$95 on Amazon USA
RESOLUTION Record Time: Viewing Angle:
1080p: 1920x1080p video at 30/25 fps (NTSC/PAL) at 105° field of view (FOV).
720p: 1280x720p at 60/50 fps with 142° FOV.
WVGA: 848×480 at 120/100 fps with 142° FOV
STILL IMAGES 12MP
LENS 7 elements (6 tempered glass, 1 IRF)
LENS ROTATION 270° variable (90˚ counter clockwise, 180˚ clockwise)
FOCUS 5 inches to infinity
ASPECT RATIO 16:9
FORMAT MPEG-4 (mp4) Compression: H.264*
LIGHT SENSITIVITY 1.5 V / Lux. second
STORAGE Micro SD card up to 32GB (class 6 or higher, not included)
TRANSFER USB 2.0
POWER Li-Ion 1700mAh rechargeable battery
OPERATING SYSTEM Win XP SP2+, Vista, 7 and 8. Mac OS X 10.4+
WEIGHT: Camera 140 grams (5 oz.) with waterproof housing 242 grams (8.5 oz) .
I missed your question.
Yes, the UV will have an impact especially if the boat has been left with the mast up or without a cover with the mast exposed. It tends to make the plastic brittle and therefore easier to crack when raising or lowering the mast.
The problem is that once the bolt rope has jumped out of the track it’s very difficult to stop it happening again without replacing as the track gets forced apart.
I’ve passed on your request to Roger. In the meantime, you may be interested in the method developed by Linda Wright who shares your physique.
”I have posted some photos to help illustrate how I (being challenged in height and upper body strength) step the mast by myself. The mast is very light, but I still find it to be a shaky affair and prefer a more secure means of stepping and unstepping the mast, even though it takes a little longer to set up.
First, install a small pad eye at the base of the mast on the forward side.
The following steps are for taking the mast down. Putting the mast up is the reverse of it, but harder to describe going in that direction.
Step 1. Run a single, continuous line from pad eye at base of mast, through a downhaul block on the bar immediately behind the mast (starboard side), through a cleat (starboard side), through a cleat (port side), through a downhaul block on the bar (port side) and tie to pad eye again.
Cleat in such a way that there is enough room to move the mast forward by one diameter of the base.
Step 2. Tie on a second, much longer lashing line to the forestay, lead back to one of the jib sheet cleats and hang it on the horn cleat on the mast so you can reach it later. Now, you can unlash the primary lashing line completely. Then un-cleat the long line to let the mast rock back a little bit on the bar …enough so that you can just see part of it showing at the groove and re-cleat it.
Step 3. Get into the boat and lift the mast straight up off the bar and set on deck just forward of the mast base (base tether line should no longer be slack. At this point, mast is still secure, even if you let go of it.
Step 4. Now take long line off of horn cleat, but do NOT un-cleat from jib sheet cleat until you are standing sideways as far back in the boat as you can without tipping backwards (my back foot is just forward of the tether pad eye in the bottom of the boat).
Step 5. Put one hand on the mast approximately shoulder level and un-cleat the long line with the other hand. Now you can ease the mast back slowly, grab with both hands and ease it down until it is resting on the aft beam where it meets the socket (somewhat of a diagonal angle from mast base).
The ability to lay the mast a bit away from the centerline of the boat is one advantage of this system over a fixed, stainless hinge that forces the mast to lay straight down the middle. It gives you room to get into the center of the boat when lifting and lowering the mast. The lines at the base, if adjusted correctly, limit the amount the base can kick up to almost nothing. When initially raising the mast, you will have the mast base just forward of the step and can lean into the tether line for leverage as you are lifting it up off the aft beam.”
Note that the photos are from her boat which had been modified to take part in the Everglades Challenge with a self-tacking jib and bow steering system for use when paddling while sitting on the bow.
Susie asked :
How to slot the amas by yourself.
Put the boat on some grass or sand.
Lift the Ama from the trolley and lay it on the grass/sand so that the ama arms line up with the hole in the main hull (you may need to do this by moving the end of the arm so it lines up). Now lift the ama so it remains horizontal (lift just aft of the forward arm) and push the ama arms into the holes. Tighten the tramp ties to make sure they are fully inserted.
How to raise the main sail by yourself, especially when it comes out of the track.
If the mainsail is coming out of the track, then you need to replace the section of track!
Also use silicon spray to lubricate the track.
- This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago by Paul White.
I have asked Roger at Weta about the hinged mast step and they have been let down by suppliers going bust so now are looking for a supplier in Batam.
You can get mast up covers from a number of suppliers including those listed here http://wetaforum.com/forums/topic/weta-boat-covers/
- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Paul White.
It’s a bit difficult to suggest a starting position for the mainsheet cleat because it will depend on a number of variables including your height, hiking position (sitting on floats or tramp edge) and length of the strop from the block to the deck ring.
If you’re having to use your foot it’s definitely too low!
Best suggestion is to stand beside the boat on the trolley to get an approximate position and take a screwdriver out with you on a practice day (or before the race).
Try the new position in various hiking locations. To adjust it, put the boat hove-to – tack leaving the jib cleated, release the main completely until it’s against the shrouds and wedge the tiller extension under a hiking strap or loop the spinnaker sheet around it to keep the rudder turning the boat into the wind.
Regarding the clew holes – most people in our fleet use the rear one as much as possible only switching over 15-18knots of wind – but it does depend on the crew weight and how comfortable you are with float hiking.
Generally the Weta won’t point as high as monohulls in the mid-range – you’re better off easing the sheets to use your speed and overcome the drag of the hills to get the boat planing.
It does change once you get close to 20 knots of wind when the width of the Weta allows you to point and retain height and the monohulls start to have to ease their sails to spill some wind.
If it’s very light (<6 knots) you can still maintain headway (but not height) using the gennaker as a “code zero” and sitting on the leeward side to give the sails some shape and keep one float flying, to reduce drag, as well as playing he gennaker direct with your hand and bringing the clew of the gennaker towards the middle of the tramp.
Between 6-10 knots in flat water, it can pay to sit by the daggerboard and remain on the tramp in front of the stays in the puffs. Once you find you need to hike, move back behind the stay but up against it and only move further back in waves.