Forum Replies Created
Sure, we all use padding to make the tramp edge more comfortable. The point I was trying to make is that foam padding should be supplied with new boats.
One problem with pipe cladding is that it tends to be quite soft and looses it’s cushioning ability after use. I use foam floor mats which are firmer foam and don’t compress so easily.
Big Ass Bag
The mainsail is just under 2m long when rolled but allow 2m (6’5″) as a minimum. Surfboard and windsurfer bags are ideal for storing the sails and other gear but it does need some height in the bag to avoid crushing the sail.
The Curve Super-Slim Coffin bag is available in lengths from 6’6″ (2m) to 7’6″ (2.3m) from $110.
- surfboard coffin cover for day use (usually used for transporting multiple surfboards)
- same patented wrap design as overstayer – secures any size load whether large or small.
- 2 entry options: unfold for full side access or unzip tail for rear access.
- 14×14 hard wearing silver tarpee
- 7mm waterproof shock absorbing foam core.
- 600D nose and tail reinforcement.
- reinforcement stitching in hi-stress areas.
- heat reflective nylon lined interior.
- big tooth #10 zip, reversed for extra zip protection.
- 4x grab handles for easy handling.
- 2x external pockets, 1x internal pocket.
- address label.
- less zips to break or corrode.
- weights: S 4.6LB / 2.1kg, M 4.85LB / 2.2kg, L 5.1LB / 2.3kg
I would change 3
Don’t remove the main shrouds. Once the mast is down, coil the shrouds and put them on top of the tramps with the ends tucked in so they won’t come undone. If trailering, thread the mainsheet through them and hook it onto the mast step bar or cunningham hook if you need more length.
Carabiner clips for halyards
Tie stainless steel carabiner clips on the end of the jib and gennaker halyards where they clip onto the head of the sail to save you having to make a mess of tying a bowline each time.
Halyard tails inside the boat
Also instead of putting the halyard tails inside the mast, I wrap them around the upper mast once near the front mast support and put the mast bungee tie down over the top to hold them in place and keep them taught. Then I put the tails inside the hatch.
The main issue is that there is no hatch available designed to be fully waterproof underwater for the size of hatch used on the Weta amas.
Also the Chinese-made floats with the seam down the side often don’t have a flat surface at the back of the float which makes it difficult to create a seal. You need to create to get a flat surface to mount the hatch onto and you may need to use some filler to achieve this.
Hatch suppliers have changed a few times but now I’d go with the Nairn hatches – if they don’t fit you may need to file the opening slightly. But you do need to remove any old sealant around the opening which can be laborious – I use Turpentine Substitute and a razor blade.
The old hatches used to be glued/sealed in without screws to hold them in place because the back of the float often wasn’t level. The 2015+ boats, without the seam down the side of the ama or the lip at the rear of the float, have a much better level surface at the back and now have screws around the hatch.
Tom’s mod doesn’t work on the Nairn hatches which lack the large seal area and use a recessed o-ring to create the seal. If you have a leak from the Nairn hatches, you can create a better seal by adding an additional 100mm o-ring.
I just keep my anchor with the rope in a mesh bag with a drawstring below deck – which helps with weight distribution and prevents it from damaging anything (for your situation, having a bag you can fill with stones for a second anchor could be really useful).
If I think I’m going to use it, I set up the anchor bridle (better name) while rigging the boat and use the shock cord to keep it on deck out of the way – although you can set it up on the water*.
To deploy, retrieve the anchor from the hatch and clip the carbine hook to the anchor bridle, unclip the shock cord to release the bridle and throw your anchor out, tie the tail of the anchor line around the float arm and you’re done.
Linda Wright also used an anchor bridle while sheltering from 30 knot winds during the 300 mile Everglades Challenge. Her boat was modified for a reefing system but I think you could achieve similar ease of depowering with the optional furling jib if you’re not familiar with handling the boat in strong winds.
*If you need to go to the bow when out on the water it’s fairly easy to stand on the deck when the boat is hove-too as long as you have some grip on your shoes/boots but sitting astride the deck is safer and easier.
You could do some nasty damage to a Weta by dragging it up a rocky beach.
However, I have a few suggestions for you.
You can anchor a Weta if you have a yoke attached to the float arms either side with a loop that extends beyond the bow. Tie a carabiner (or similar ) 3m from the end of the anchor line, so you have some line to retrieve it), and then clip the anchor line to your yoke. You may need to add a stop-knot in the middle of the yoke to stop the bow from twisting around.
This yoke can be fixed in place on the deck while sailing using a shock cord loop to hold it up out of the water. It’s is also good for towing or deploying a drogue if the water is too deep to anchor and you need to stay head to wind to drop the mainsail.
If you need to hold the boat at the stern to stop it “hunting” in the wind you could take a canvas bucket or bag full of stones/sand and tie a line from it to the rudder crossbar.
I use a plastic Kayak anchor for temporarily anchoring the boat when launching from a sandy beach in an offshore wind (to stop the boat blowing away while storing the trolley) but you’ll probably need a folding grappling-style anchor for the rocky seabed.
Use the rollers for the main hull but you’ll need to protect the floats with pool noodles because one of them will always touch the ground when you’re moving pulling the boat on the rollers.
I couldn’t find any rollers online in Sweden (although I found some inflatable fenders which would do) but they are available from Italy. You’d need at least 3 – so two can support the boat while you position the next one ahead.
I suggest hollow pool noodles with some shock cord threaded through them around the float (see fenders below) but slide them round so they are underneath.
Pool Noodle Rollers
If the beaches are relatively flat you can get away with using pool noodles themselves as rollers – protect the floats as above. You could also use longer noodles to protect the main hull if you have to beach the boat while you sort out your rollers.
To give you a stable platform while you get your achor/noodles/rollers ready when you’re about to head into a beach or anchor it’s best to put the boat Hove-To by backing the jib (or just tack and don’t uncleat it), easing the main completely and locking the tiller hard over so the boat wants to head up into the wind (lock the tiller by wrapping a couple of turns of the spinnaker sheet around the tiller extension).
If you want to store stuff inside the boat the normal 6″ port can make it difficult and the thread is prone to damage. Consider replacing it with a larger Kayak hatch or a small square hinged deck hatch but ensure it has a watertight seal because it protects the watertight compartment if you capsize.
December 19, 2017 at 12:42 am in reply to: Store a Weta rigged/mast up without ama arm/socket wear #9989
I’d just wrap some cloth-backed tape around the ends of the ama arms and then some more where the arms exit the sockets – many owners have done this to reduce movement in waves but it also helps to protect wear on the arms and tape is cheap!
I’d also consider getting a cover for the rigged boat as well as a sock for the mast since it’s not advisable to leave carbon exposed to UV for long periods.
Cover options here http://wetaforum.com/forums/topic/weta-boat-covers/
- This reply was modified 3 months ago by Paul White.
I have been in discussion with Roger at Weta Marine who told me that they had been researching a system to allow the arms to be removed from the amas using a sleeve (similar to the mast) to support the join and a clamp to hold it in place (although glue could be used for those who want a permanent setup).
This has a benefit for a trailer (and container shipping) since it reduces the height of the boat from 120cm from the ground including the trolley (allowing for the ama arms over the top) to around 90cm (the height of the hull deck). Also the amas with fixed arms are really awkward to transport and to repair.
It means that you can store the amas and ama arms separately – for example putting the arms on the inner wall of an enclosed trailer.
I am now working with John Genge at Kempsey who has built his own Weta trailer previously. I have created a 3D scale model of the design below using using Sketchup Free which you can find here. (Sketchup is available for Windows/Mac and there’s a browser-based version too – details here)
- This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by Paul White.
I’m now more inclined to go with an enclosed trailer – my pro/con below.
– Lighter weight to manoeuvre and tow
– Less affected by crosswinds
– Requires complex “parallelogram” hinged system to allow for upper level to be raised/lowered unless you have helpers to load/unload the boat
– Less storage space available except by adding containers
– No protection for boats from stone chips/road dirt unless under/over covers are fitted
– Needs to be made by specialist who has experience of building multi-level dinghy trailers
– Protects boats from road dirt/chips
– More secure
– One person loading – Can use roof-mounted pulley attached to frame to raise/lower upper level boat
– Loading system is simpler
– Large storage area for spares, water tank (for washing boats) etc.
– Outer skin provides good advertising opportunities
– Easier to find a manufacturer and DIY options available
– Heavier structure
– More prone to cross winds
– May be more expensive to construct (although loading system simplicity may offset these)
Sorry for not spotting this post earlier Michael.
Gelcoat is polyester and available from fibreglass suppliers in brush-on and spray-on formulas. You need the clear (opaque) Gelcoat base to add the pigment to – not the white.
The yellow colour is RAL 1018 as shown at the top of the Weta Wiki – if you approach a gelcoat supplier with that number they should be able to match it.
I’d suggest using a set of inexpensive electronic kitchen scales to weigh your resin/pigment. Cover them with cling-film first to prevent any overspill damage.
Any fibreglass hull is liable to get scratched if it meets a rock – Gelcoat just isn’t as forgiving as rotomoulded plastic and I agree with your summary of the alternatives. The Weta is the most fun I’ve had in a small boat.
If you want speed and performance that you can use in any conditions get a Weta (I’ve raced in 36 knot winds with the full rig). They’ve also been used for marathon races including the 300 mile Everglades Challenge.
I also used to launch and retrieve my Weta from a pontoon accessed via a gantry 2m wide. The drop to the water was 20cm so while launching was easy enough – returning to the dock and retrieving the boat was a challenge!
I’ve sailed in a yacht around the Swedish archipelago so I know the conditions a little and, as there is little tide, anchoring would work in most locations if you can get out of the wind where a line around the ama arms would do as you suggest for a short time. But you still need to keep your floats from rubbing against the cliff with the noodle fenders. When I tied up to the dock I found you needed to keep lines from both float arms very taught – otherwise the boat would twist around in the wind (especially with the sails up) and either the bow or stern of the float would rub against the dock. The only way to prevent this would be to have a second anchor (see previous post) which kept the boat away from the land.
I sailed with the French Weta fleet in the Mediterranean and they all had a rope yoke ready to deploy on the front deck – mainly so they can get towed in if the wind drops.
But in your situation, I would start with pool noodles for rollers and fenders as it means you have a two-in-one solution – especially if you can get hold of Jumbo Noodles which have a 12cm diameter. Noodles are cheap, lightweight and easy to store below deck.
December 19, 2017 at 9:46 pm in reply to: Store a Weta rigged/mast up without ama arm/socket wear #9992
I wouldn’t use spinnaker tape – it’s very thin and tends to fray at the edges.
Just go to your local hardware store and look for cloth backed duct tape.
There’s no reason for not using Dyneema – except for the cost and if it gets worn out you’d have to cut off the end of the rope and possibly replace the entire length if it got too short.
By having a leader you can have a sacrificial length of rope and then use cheap and thin line (reducing wind resistance) for the section to the mast cleat since that’s not under strain.
I agree a fore and aft trailer would be way too long – you’d have immense difficulty parking it let alone backing into a space.
The enclosed trailer I posted previously would seem to be a possible easy solution since the top boat seems to be winched into place using pulleys attached to the frame across the roof. I’m trying to contact the owner to find out.
The other thing that occured to me is that an enclosed horse or race car trailer might easily be modified to create a double Weta trailer and I’ve noticed a few bargains on Gumtree.
There’s some double trailer manufacturers here
One thing you mentioned was the issue with the height of the Weta. My reckoning is that a second layer would need to be 1200mm from the ground in order to be clear of the lower boat on its trolley with the amas in the normal position.
But you may be able to reduce that height if you remove the floats and stack them on top of a frame above the top boat – which is similar to the way they are transported from Batan with 4 boats in a 20′ container.
- This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by Paul White.