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  • in reply to: Newbie Question about Mainsheet Block #10170
    Paul White
    Paul White
    Keymaster

      Hi Tina

      It’s a bit difficult to suggest a starting position for the mainsheet cleat because it will depend on a number of variables including your height, hiking position (sitting on floats or tramp edge) and length of the strop from the block to the deck ring.

      If you’re having to use your foot it’s definitely too low!

      Best suggestion is to stand beside the boat on the trolley to get an approximate position and take a screwdriver out with you on a practice day (or before the race).

      Try the new position in various hiking locations. To adjust it, put the boat hove-to – tack leaving the jib cleated, release the main completely until it’s against the shrouds and wedge the tiller extension under a hiking strap or loop the spinnaker sheet around it to keep the rudder turning the boat into the wind.

      Regarding the clew holes – most people in our fleet use the rear one as much as possible only switching over 15-18knots of wind – but it does depend on the crew weight and how comfortable you are with float hiking.

      Generally the Weta won’t point as high as monohulls in the mid-range – you’re better off easing the sheets to use your speed and overcome the drag of the hills to get the boat planing.
      It does change once you get close to 20 knots of wind when the width of the Weta allows you to point and retain height and the monohulls start to have to ease their sails to spill some wind.
      If it’s very light (<6 knots) you can still maintain headway (but not height) using the gennaker as a “code zero” and sitting on the leeward side to give the sails some shape and keep one float flying, to reduce drag, as well as playing he gennaker direct with your hand and bringing the clew of the gennaker towards the middle of the tramp.
      Between 6-10 knots in flat water, it can pay to sit by the daggerboard and remain in front of the stays in the puffs. Once you find you need to hike, move back behind the stay but up against it and only move further back in waves.

      • This reply was modified 5 hours, 5 minutes ago by Paul White Paul White.
      • This reply was modified 4 hours, 48 minutes ago by Paul White Paul White.
    • in reply to: Newbie Question about Mainsheet Block #10169
      Paul White
      Paul White
      Keymaster

        Hi Tina

        It’s a bit difficult to suggest a starting position for the mainsheet cleat because it will design end on a number of variables including your height, hiking position (sitting on floats ortramp edge) and length of the strop from the block to the deck ring.

        If you’re having to use your foot it’s definitely too low. Best suggestion is to stand beside the boat on the trolley to get an approximate position and take a screwdriver out with you on a practice day (or before the race).
        Try the new position in various hiking locations. To adjust it, put the boat hove-to – tack leaving the jib cleated, release the main completely until it’s against the shrouds and wedge the tiller extension under a hiking strap or loop the spinnaker sheet around it to keep the rudder turning the boat into the wind.

      • in reply to: Weta beach/tire pressure #10153
        Paul White
        Paul White
        Keymaster

          I’ve had a tyre burst when the trolley was left in the sun while I was sailing so it depends where you leave it.

          The max allowable pressure is printed on the side-wall of the tyre. Depending on manufacturer it will be between
          22 and 30 psi. 18 to 20 psi is recommended if you leave it in the sun while sailing.

          I’ve also found that sun exposure when the boat is parked has started to cause the rubber of the tyre wall to deteriorate which doesn’t help.

          • This reply was modified 1 month ago by Paul White Paul White.
        • in reply to: Rudder lockdown rod – is there anything better? #10150
          Paul White
          Paul White
          Keymaster

            Yes, I’ve had it start to lift going downwind in over 25knots which is a bit scary – hence I use 10mm shock cord.

            But you can always add another loop or wind up the tension like a rubber band on a toy aeroplane.

            • This reply was modified 1 month ago by Paul White Paul White.
          • in reply to: Dyneema leader to replace wire leader on mainsail #10137
            Paul White
            Paul White
            Keymaster

              I’ve been using the Dyneema leader for about 3 months in mostly strong winds over 20 knots and haven’t noticed any wear. The stop knot has become a bit compressed so I just tied another over it.

            • in reply to: Rudder lockdown rod – is there anything better? #10135
              Paul White
              Paul White
              Keymaster

                Yes, try the bungee auto-kick up solution here.

                Simple, cheap, no damage to the rudder on impact.

                Rudder bungee auto kickup system

              • in reply to: AMA arms move in sockets #10134
                Paul White
                Paul White
                Keymaster

                  You might try using chafetape or patches which are designed to prevent wear. You could always put some regular tape underneath if you need more bulk.

                • in reply to: AMA arms move in sockets #10131
                  Paul White
                  Paul White
                  Keymaster

                    Hi Martin

                    I had taped up the ends of the arms and where they exit the holes of my Weta (#1148) but I had to remove it because the hot sun (in an Australian summer) was causing the glue to spread and make it really hard to get the arms in or out of the holes in the hull. There are tapes available which are heat resistant so I may look at them next or try silicon tape.

                    I’ve never noticed my amas “jiggling” in the sockets. I do tend to tighten the tramp ties up after launching because I find that they always loosen once the boat is in the water. I also replaced the tramp cleats on my old boat (#325) because the rope was slipping in the cleats.

                    Do you have a 2:1 on the tramp ties to increase the tension? I have one on the front and the rear and I have lengthened the rope for each tramp by 2m so that it can remain tied on to the front block on the deck (to save rigging time). The rope is tied to the block with a bowline then through the tramp hole and back around the block then threaded through the tramp edge to the rear. To detach the tramp I just undo the line at the rear and then loosed the line so It enables me to place the ama arms over the boat.

                     

                  • in reply to: Padding Under Tramp Edges #10118
                    Paul White
                    Paul White
                    Keymaster

                      Sure, we all use padding to make the tramp edge more comfortable. The point I was trying to make is that foam padding should be supplied with new boats.

                      One problem with pipe cladding is that it tends to be quite soft and looses it’s cushioning ability after use. I use foam floor mats which are firmer foam and don’t compress so easily.

                       

                    • in reply to: How to speed up rigging your Weta #10088
                      Paul White
                      Paul White
                      Keymaster

                        Big Ass Bag

                        The mainsail is just under 2m long when rolled but allow 2m (6’5″) as a minimum. Surfboard and windsurfer bags are ideal for storing the sails and other gear but it does need some height in the bag to avoid crushing the sail.

                        The Curve Super-Slim Coffin bag is available in lengths from 6’6″ (2m) to 7’6″ (2.3m) from $110.

                        • surfboard coffin cover for day use (usually used for transporting multiple surfboards)
                        • same patented wrap design as overstayer – secures any size load whether large or small.
                        • 2 entry options: unfold for full side access or unzip tail for rear access.
                        • 14×14 hard wearing silver tarpee
                        • 7mm waterproof shock absorbing foam core.
                        • 600D nose and tail reinforcement.
                        • reinforcement stitching in hi-stress areas.
                        • heat reflective nylon lined interior.
                        • big tooth #10 zip, reversed for extra zip protection.
                        • 4x grab handles for easy handling.
                        • 2x external pockets, 1x internal pocket.
                        • address label.
                        • less zips to break or corrode.
                        • weights: S 4.6LB / 2.1kg, M 4.85LB / 2.2kg, L 5.1LB / 2.3kg

                         

                      • in reply to: How to speed up rigging your Weta #10078
                        Paul White
                        Paul White
                        Keymaster

                          The loop ball system in action (photos: Bob Hyde)

                        • in reply to: How to speed up rigging your Weta #10067
                          Paul White
                          Paul White
                          Keymaster

                            I would change 3
                            Don’t remove the main shrouds. Once the mast is down, coil the shrouds and put them on top of the tramps with the ends tucked in so they won’t come undone. If trailering, thread the mainsheet through them and hook it onto the mast step bar or cunningham hook if you need more length.

                            Other tips

                            Carabiner clips for halyards
                            Tie stainless steel carabiner clips on the end of the jib and gennaker halyards where they clip onto the head of the sail to save you having to make a mess of tying a bowline each time.

                            Halyard tails inside the boat
                            Also instead of putting the halyard tails inside the mast, I wrap them around the upper mast once near the front mast support and put the mast bungee tie down over the top to hold them in place and keep them taught. Then I put the tails inside the hatch.

                            • This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by Paul White Paul White.
                            • This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by Paul White Paul White.
                          • in reply to: AMA hatch rim crack #10048
                            Paul White
                            Paul White
                            Keymaster

                              The main issue is that there is no hatch available designed to be fully waterproof underwater for the size of hatch used on the Weta amas.

                              Also the Chinese-made floats with the seam down the side often don’t have a flat surface at the back of the float which makes it difficult to create a seal. You need to create to get a flat surface to mount the hatch onto and you may need to use some filler to achieve this.

                              Hatch suppliers have changed a few times but now I’d go with the Nairn hatches  – if they don’t fit you may need to file the opening slightly. But you do need to remove any old sealant around the opening which can be laborious – I use Turpentine Substitute and a razor blade.

                              The old hatches used to be glued/sealed in without screws to hold them in place because the back of the float often wasn’t level. The 2015+ boats, without the seam down the side of the ama or the lip at the rear of the float, have a much better level surface at the back and now have screws around the hatch.

                              Tom’s mod doesn’t work on the Nairn hatches which lack the large seal area and use a recessed o-ring to create the seal. If you have a leak from the Nairn hatches, you can create a better seal by adding an additional 100mm o-ring.

                               

                            • in reply to: Anchoring/pulling up on rocks #10039
                              Paul White
                              Paul White
                              Keymaster

                                I just keep my anchor with the rope in a mesh bag with a drawstring below deck – which helps with weight distribution and prevents it from damaging anything (for your situation, having a bag you can fill with stones for a second anchor could be really useful).

                                If I think I’m going to use it, I set up the anchor bridle (better name) while rigging the boat and use the shock cord to keep it on deck out of the way – although you can set it up on the water*.

                                This forum article shows the anchor bridle in use for a drogue but the anchor setup is the same although I’d probably use a Ronstan Carbine hook for one handed hooking if I used it more frequently.

                                To deploy,  retrieve the anchor from the hatch and clip the carbine hook to the anchor bridle, unclip the shock cord to release the bridle and throw your anchor out, tie the tail of the anchor line around the float arm and you’re done.

                                Linda Wright also used an anchor bridle while sheltering from 30 knot winds during the 300 mile Everglades Challenge. Her boat was modified for a reefing system but I think you could achieve similar ease of depowering with the optional furling jib if you’re not familiar with handling the boat in strong winds.

                                *If you need to go to the bow when out on the water it’s fairly easy to stand on the deck when the boat is hove-too as long as you have some grip on your shoes/boots but sitting astride the deck is safer and easier.

                              • in reply to: Anchoring/pulling up on rocks #10033
                                Paul White
                                Paul White
                                Keymaster

                                  Any fibreglass hull is liable to get scratched if it meets a rock – Gelcoat just isn’t as forgiving as rotomoulded plastic and I agree with your summary of the alternatives. The Weta is the most fun I’ve had in a small boat.

                                  If you want speed and performance that you can use in any conditions get a Weta (I’ve raced in 36 knot winds with the full rig). They’ve also been used for marathon races including the 300 mile Everglades Challenge.

                                  I also used to launch and retrieve my Weta from a pontoon accessed via a gantry 2m wide. The drop to the water was 20cm so while launching was easy enough – returning to the dock and retrieving the boat was a  challenge!

                                  I’ve sailed in a yacht around the Swedish archipelago so I know the conditions a little and, as there is little tide, anchoring would work in most locations if you can get out of the wind where a line around the ama arms would do as you suggest for a short time. But you still need to keep your floats from rubbing against the cliff with the noodle fenders. When I tied up to the dock I found you needed to keep lines from both float arms very taught – otherwise the boat would twist around in the wind (especially with the sails up) and either the bow or stern of the float would rub against the dock. The only way to prevent this would be to have a second anchor (see previous post) which kept the boat away from the land.

                                  I sailed with the French Weta fleet in the Mediterranean and they all had a rope yoke ready to deploy on the front deck – mainly so they can get towed in if the wind drops.

                                  But in your situation, I would start with pool noodles for rollers and fenders as it means you have a two-in-one solution – especially if you can get hold of Jumbo Noodles which have a 12cm diameter. Noodles are cheap, lightweight and easy to store below deck.

                                  • This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by Paul White Paul White.
                                  • This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by Paul White Paul White.
                                Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 87 total)