Forum Replies Created
The excellent budget option, the TCL SVC200 has been discontinued. However, after OEMing the SVC200 as the XTC300, Midland in the USA seem to have continued with a similar camera with an upgraded spec and battery life (4 hours) as well as adding other features with the XTC400VP.
The 140º lens is better than the 127º of the TCL they have added WiFi ability (and a rather flakey phone App) but dispensed with the side LCD display which the SVC had. It now has a rotating lens which means you can mount it sideways. It also has the simple magnetic on-off switch of the the TCL but requires a rather heavy waterproof case to be fully waterproof. The camera and case together weigh over 240g which may be a bit much on the end of a pole but will be fine mounted on the bowsprit.
RESOLUTION Record Time: Viewing Angle:
1920 x 1080p (30/25fps) 11min/GB 105°
1280 x 720p (60/50fps) 13min/GB 142°
WVGA 848 x 480 (120/100fps) 13min/GB 142°
STILL IMAGES 12MP
LENS 7 elements (6 tempered glass, 1 IRF)
LENS ROTATION 270° variable (90˚ counter clockwise, 180˚ clockwise)
FOCUS 5 inches to infinity
ASPECT RATIO 16:9
FORMAT MPEG-4 (mp4) Compression: H.264*
LIGHT SENSITIVITY 1.5 V / Lux. second
STORAGE Micro SD card up to 32GB (class 6 or higher, not included)
TRANSFER USB 2.0
POWER Li-Ion 1700mAh rechargeable battery
OPERATING SYSTEM Win XP SP2+, Vista, 7 and 8. Mac OS X 10.4+
WEIGHT: Camera 140 grams (5 oz.) with waterproof housing 242 grams (8.5 oz) .
I missed your question.
Yes, the UV will have an impact especially if the boat has been left with the mast up or without a cover with the mast exposed. It tends to make the plastic brittle and therefore easier to crack when raising or lowering the mast.
The problem is that once the bolt rope has jumped out of the track it’s very difficult to stop it happening again without replacing as the track gets forced apart.
I’ve passed on your request to Roger. In the meantime, you may be interested in the method developed by Linda Wright who shares your physique.
”I have posted some photos to help illustrate how I (being challenged in height and upper body strength) step the mast by myself. The mast is very light, but I still find it to be a shaky affair and prefer a more secure means of stepping and unstepping the mast, even though it takes a little longer to set up.
First, install a small pad eye at the base of the mast on the forward side.
The following steps are for taking the mast down. Putting the mast up is the reverse of it, but harder to describe going in that direction.
Step 1. Run a single, continuous line from pad eye at base of mast, through a downhaul block on the bar immediately behind the mast (starboard side), through a cleat (starboard side), through a cleat (port side), through a downhaul block on the bar (port side) and tie to pad eye again.
Cleat in such a way that there is enough room to move the mast forward by one diameter of the base.
Step 2. Tie on a second, much longer lashing line to the forestay, lead back to one of the jib sheet cleats and hang it on the horn cleat on the mast so you can reach it later. Now, you can unlash the primary lashing line completely. Then un-cleat the long line to let the mast rock back a little bit on the bar …enough so that you can just see part of it showing at the groove and re-cleat it.
Step 3. Get into the boat and lift the mast straight up off the bar and set on deck just forward of the mast base (base tether line should no longer be slack. At this point, mast is still secure, even if you let go of it.
Step 4. Now take long line off of horn cleat, but do NOT un-cleat from jib sheet cleat until you are standing sideways as far back in the boat as you can without tipping backwards (my back foot is just forward of the tether pad eye in the bottom of the boat).
Step 5. Put one hand on the mast approximately shoulder level and un-cleat the long line with the other hand. Now you can ease the mast back slowly, grab with both hands and ease it down until it is resting on the aft beam where it meets the socket (somewhat of a diagonal angle from mast base).
The ability to lay the mast a bit away from the centerline of the boat is one advantage of this system over a fixed, stainless hinge that forces the mast to lay straight down the middle. It gives you room to get into the center of the boat when lifting and lowering the mast. The lines at the base, if adjusted correctly, limit the amount the base can kick up to almost nothing. When initially raising the mast, you will have the mast base just forward of the step and can lean into the tether line for leverage as you are lifting it up off the aft beam.”
Note that the photos are from her boat which had been modified to take part in the Everglades Challenge with a self-tacking jib and bow steering system for use when paddling while sitting on the bow.
I have asked Roger at Weta about the hinged mast step and they have been let down by suppliers going bust so now are looking for a supplier in Batam.
You can get mast up covers from a number of suppliers including those listed here http://wetaforum.com/forums/topic/weta-boat-covers/
- This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by Paul White.
It’s a bit difficult to suggest a starting position for the mainsheet cleat because it will depend on a number of variables including your height, hiking position (sitting on floats or tramp edge) and length of the strop from the block to the deck ring.
If you’re having to use your foot it’s definitely too low!
Best suggestion is to stand beside the boat on the trolley to get an approximate position and take a screwdriver out with you on a practice day (or before the race).
Try the new position in various hiking locations. To adjust it, put the boat hove-to – tack leaving the jib cleated, release the main completely until it’s against the shrouds and wedge the tiller extension under a hiking strap or loop the spinnaker sheet around it to keep the rudder turning the boat into the wind.
Regarding the clew holes – most people in our fleet use the rear one as much as possible only switching over 15-18knots of wind – but it does depend on the crew weight and how comfortable you are with float hiking.
Generally the Weta won’t point as high as monohulls in the mid-range – you’re better off easing the sheets to use your speed and overcome the drag of the hills to get the boat planing.
It does change once you get close to 20 knots of wind when the width of the Weta allows you to point and retain height and the monohulls start to have to ease their sails to spill some wind.
If it’s very light (<6 knots) you can still maintain headway (but not height) using the gennaker as a “code zero” and sitting on the leeward side to give the sails some shape and keep one float flying, to reduce drag, as well as playing he gennaker direct with your hand and bringing the clew of the gennaker towards the middle of the tramp.
Between 6-10 knots in flat water, it can pay to sit by the daggerboard and remain on the tramp in front of the stays in the puffs. Once you find you need to hike, move back behind the stay but up against it and only move further back in waves.
I’ve had a tyre burst when the trolley was left in the sun while I was sailing so it depends where you leave it.
The max allowable pressure is printed on the side-wall of the tyre. Depending on manufacturer it will be between
22 and 30 psi. 18 to 20 psi is recommended if you leave it in the sun while sailing.
I’ve also found that sun exposure when the boat is parked has started to cause the rubber of the tyre wall to deteriorate which doesn’t help.
- This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by Paul White.
I’ve been using the Dyneema leader for about 3 months in mostly strong winds over 20 knots and haven’t noticed any wear. The stop knot has become a bit compressed so I just tied another over it.
You might try using chafetape or patches which are designed to prevent wear. You could always put some regular tape underneath if you need more bulk.
I had taped up the ends of the arms and where they exit the holes of my Weta (#1148) but I had to remove it because the hot sun (in an Australian summer) was causing the glue to spread and make it really hard to get the arms in or out of the holes in the hull. There are tapes available which are heat resistant so I may look at them next or try silicon tape.
I’ve never noticed my amas “jiggling” in the sockets. I do tend to tighten the tramp ties up after launching because I find that they always loosen once the boat is in the water. I also replaced the tramp cleats on my old boat (#325) because the rope was slipping in the cleats.
Do you have a 2:1 on the tramp ties to increase the tension? I have one on the front and the rear and I have lengthened the rope for each tramp by 2m so that it can remain tied on to the front block on the deck (to save rigging time). The rope is tied to the block with a bowline then through the tramp hole and back around the block then threaded through the tramp edge to the rear. To detach the tramp I just undo the line at the rear and then loosed the line so It enables me to place the ama arms over the boat.
Sure, we all use padding to make the tramp edge more comfortable. The point I was trying to make is that foam padding should be supplied with new boats.
One problem with pipe cladding is that it tends to be quite soft and looses it’s cushioning ability after use. I use foam floor mats which are firmer foam and don’t compress so easily.
Big Ass Bag
The mainsail is just under 2m long when rolled but allow 2m (6’5″) as a minimum. Surfboard and windsurfer bags are ideal for storing the sails and other gear but it does need some height in the bag to avoid crushing the sail.
The Curve Super-Slim Coffin bag is available in lengths from 6’6″ (2m) to 7’6″ (2.3m) from $110.
- surfboard coffin cover for day use (usually used for transporting multiple surfboards)
- same patented wrap design as overstayer – secures any size load whether large or small.
- 2 entry options: unfold for full side access or unzip tail for rear access.
- 14×14 hard wearing silver tarpee
- 7mm waterproof shock absorbing foam core.
- 600D nose and tail reinforcement.
- reinforcement stitching in hi-stress areas.
- heat reflective nylon lined interior.
- big tooth #10 zip, reversed for extra zip protection.
- 4x grab handles for easy handling.
- 2x external pockets, 1x internal pocket.
- address label.
- less zips to break or corrode.
- weights: S 4.6LB / 2.1kg, M 4.85LB / 2.2kg, L 5.1LB / 2.3kg